Khajuraho~Legendary Tales in Stone

Hello friends, after quite a long break I am again here with you. Hope all of you are well and enjoying my previous stories. Today I will take you to another new destination, another historical town of Madhya Pradesh. Hope you will enjoy this story. So, lets begin our new journey...

        Khajuraho. The word when comes in our mind, every foody people will think about Chutney. Yes, Khajur or date-palm is a very important item in preparing chutney and this very fruit had a great role in the naming of this place. Actually the name Khajuraho has come from Khajurvahika. It was the Chandela Rulers who built the Khajuraho temples had made a large boundary wall around the town of Khajuraho. there were 8 gates for entry and exit to and from the town. These gates were flanked on either side by date-palm trees. Thus, the place bearing so much date-palm trees got the name Khajurvahika, which later came to be known as Khajuraho. 

        Khajuraho to all of us is a temple town. From our childhood history books we got the knowledge that there are many temples here in this town. But why so many temple had been built here? Yes, there is a very nice legendary story which is the answer to this question. Actually this story starts from Kashi. Hemawati was the daughter of a preist from Kashi. One night she was bathing in a pond. The moon god got seduced in her beauty and fell in her love. The result of this union was the birth of a child, Chandravarman. The moon god blessed Hemawati that this child will be the founder of a new kingdom, which kingdom will be remembered as the creator of many gorgeous temples. According to the local folklore, Chandravarman was the founder of the Chandela dynasty. Though according to historians, the Chandela dynasty was founded by King Nannuka in 831CE. 

Devi Saraswati from Walls of Chitragupta Temple

        The Chandela kings built at least 85 temples here in Khajuraho but today most of them are damaged. Those still present are conserved by the Archeaological Survey of India. These temples were mainly built by Raja Yashovarman, Raja Dhangdev and Raja Vidhyadhar in between 950 to 1050CE. After the fall of the Chandelas in 1335CE, Khajuraho became an abandoned place. This results in forest encroachment. And almost every temples and constructions in Khajuraho was encroached by forests. These forests damaged most of the temples but protected a few from the bigotic Delhi Sultans. Later in 1830s, British Officer T.S. Bart discovered the Khajuraho Temples with the help of few tribal people, who dwelled inside the forests. Though restoration and protection of these monuments was initiated by Lord Curzon in early 20th century. In 1986 the temples of Khajuraho are included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is a rough history of the Khajuraho temples. Now let us concentrate on touring Khajuraho temples.  

        Khajuraho temples are divided into three groups--The Western, Eastern and Southern groups. Before touring the temple it is better to visit the State Archaeological Museum, near the Western Complex ticket counter first. This will help you to grow interest about the history of Khajuraho and you will get a rough knowledge about different figures used in the temples. It will take about 30-40 mins to visit there and gather a rough knowledge about the temples. 

Western Group of Temples

Laxman Temple

       After visiting the museum then start exploring the temples of Western Complex. First you will find the Laxmi Temple and Varaha Temple in the left hand side after entering the complex. Both the temples are built by Raja Yashovarman. Actually, the Laxmi temple was originally Garuda temple,dedicated to the Vahana of Vishnu, but later on Bundela Ruler of Orchha raided Khajuraho in 14th century under Pratap Singh Deo, who replaced the Garuda statue with goddess laxmi. The architecture of these temples are much simple with a pyramidal roof. Just opposite the Varaha Temple is the Laxman Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu. This temple too was commissioned by Raja Yashovarman. The figures on the walls of this temple are very lively. The deity inside the temple is Vaikuntha form of Lord Vishnu. 

Varaha Temple

        A short walk from this temple towards north will lead you to the Kandariya Mahadeo Temple. This is the largest and most ornate temple among the Khajuraho temples. according to some Historians This temple is the most beautiful temple from Medieval India. This temple was built by Raja Vidyadhar in 1025CE to commemorate the king's victory against Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni. He dedicated this temple to Lord Shiva. The figures used in the walls of this temple are the most prominent and beautiful. It is said that this figures are designed by the most renowned sculptures of that time. The erotic figures and Maithun figures in this temple are very prominent. It looks like the best designed figures in the whole town of Khajuraho were first commissioned in this temple and then the remaining are utilised in others. Every visitors here will be astonished by the proportionate figures used in this temple. There are an altogether of 800+ figures including figures inside the temple and the outside walls.

        Just adjacent to the Kandariya Mahadeo Temple is the Jagdambi Temple dedicated to Devi Parvati. This temple too was built by Raja Vidyadhar in 1023CE. The structure of this temple is very much like that of the Kandariya Mahadeo Temple but smaller in size. The enormous figure of the main deity inside the temple is a must watch.

Kandariya Mahadeo (left) and Jagdambi Temple (Right)

        Walking few meters towards the north-eastern boundary of the complex will lead you to the Chitragupta Temple. This temple, dedicated to the Sun God was commissioned in 1023CE in the occasion of Shivaratri. The outer walls of the Chitragupta Temple is decorated by some very lively and prominent Maithun figures, Apsara and Surasundari figures. The rare statue of 11 headed Vishnu with 10 heads representing incarnations of Vishnu is present here. 

Vaikuntha, main Deity of Laxman Temple with

3 faces--Human, Lion and Boar face

        The path towards south will lead you to the Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. This temple was commissioned by Raja Dhangadeva in 1002CE to commemorate his victory over the Pratihar kingdom. The temple has a Nandi shrine just opposite to the entrance of the main temple. The walls of the temple is decorated by different figures of other deities and figures of Surasundaris. According to locals this temple had 2 shiva lingas, one made up of stone and other made up of emarald. But presently only the stone made one is present. 

Maithun Couples from walls of 

Chitragupta temple

        Just adjacent to the Vishwanath Temple is the Parvati Temple. This temple is almost totally damaged with only the main Garbhagriha present today, which is restored by the archaeological survey. Just adjacent to this temple is the Pratapeshwar Temple, the most recent temple in the complex. This temple is not an example of Chandela Architecture. So, it is very different in stucture from other temples of Khajuraho. This temple has a fussion of Hindu (Bundela), Jain and Muslim style of architecture, thus it is also known as harmony temple among the locals. The roof of this temple has three spires, each showing Bundela, Muslim and Jain architectural styles. This temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva was built by the Bundela king Pratap Singh of Chhatarpur in 17th century.

Surasundari with Lion from Walls of

Vishwanath Temple

        These are the temples inside the Western Complex. Just a few steps away from the gate of the Western temple complex is the Matangeswara Temple. It is the only temple of Khajuraho which is used as a place of worship till now. According to some Historians this temple was built by Raja Dhangdev in 1000CE, but many historians opined that this temple is much older as this temple is devoid of any figures and shows a different structure than other temples built here in early 11th century. They states that this temple may had been commissioned during 920-930CE. According to Local folklore this temple was a Ashram of a sage Matanga, who controlled the love god. But historians suggests that this temple was dedicated to Matangeshwara, a form of Lord Shiva who controls the God of Love. Everyday at 6PM aarti is performed in this temple. It is recommended for devotees to watch the Aarti here before heading towards the Light and Sound Show at the Western Complex.

Vishwanath Temple

        About 500meters away from the Western Complex gate there is the Khajurasagar Lake, just beside the Khajuraho Palace. A narrow road by the southern side of the Lake will lead you to the Chausath Yogini Temple. This temple is built in 885CE and is dedicated to Devi Durga and her 64 Yoginis, ei, worshippers. This temple is very much different from other temples in Khajuraho. This temple comprised of 65 cells, out of which 64 is dedicated to the Yoginis and the main cell to Devi Durga. Presently out of these only 35 is found. The statues of Bramhani, Mahishmardini and Maheswari present at the Khajuraho Museum are originally discovered here. This temple is made up of Granite and as Granite is a very hard rock, this temple is devoid of any rock cravings and sculpture. 

Pratapeshwar Temple

        After visiting this temple, exploring the Western Groups comes to an end. This will take a whole day as you can't enjoy Khajuraho in a hurry. Take your time and thoroughly go through the figures, enjoy the architectural characteristics, you will have the real fun. After this, now go for the Light and Sound Show at the Western Complex, which took place at the ground just between the Kandariya Mahadeo Temple and the Chitragupta Temple. Please don't miss the show. 

Laxman Temple at Night

 The Southern Group of Temples

        The next morning lets start to explore the Southern Group of Temples. Unlike that of the Western Group, the southern group of temples are not much in a cluster, there are no such well organised temple complex. Rather this circuit is a bit scattered along the banks of River Khuder. This group consist of three temples--The Dulhadeo, The Chaturbhuj and the Bijamandal ruins. This group is quite a distance away from the main Khajuraho village. So, it is better to plan the trip such a way that you can first explore these temples, then after having your lunch at your hotel or somewhere else around the Western Complex you can proceed towards the eastern circuit.

Dulhadeo Temple

       So, take the road towards the River Khudar. Just before the river you will find the Dulhadeo Temple. This temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, is commissioned by Raja Kirtivarman in 1100CE. This is most probably the last temple built by the Chandela rulers here. The temple has a structure very much different to that of the other temples in Khajuraho. While most of the temples of Khajuraho is built on Pancharatha plan, this temple is built on Saptaratha plan, that is a seven chariot plan is noticed in the sanctum here. The Sikhar of the temple too is a bit different from other Khajuraho temples. The facila expressions of the sculptures in the wall of this temple is soft and delicate. The figures in this temple is mostly related to Shiva and Parvati.

Shiva-Parvathi from Dulhadeo Temple

        After exploring Dulhadeo, now its time to visit Chaturbhuj temple. This is the southernmost temple in Khajuraho, located at Jatkari Village. That is why this temple is also known as Jatkari Temple. This temple was built by Raja Yashovarman and is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The most striking feature of this temple is it is the only temple in Khajuraho, that faces west. All other temples here are east-facing. A very rough road, almost impossible to drive from Chaturbhuj temple will lead you to the Bijamandal ruins. This is said to be the largest of the khajuraho temples, but presently the structure is totally ruined.  

        Thus, exploration of the Southern circuit comes to an end. Now its time to explore the Eastern group. But before that have your lunch. After lunch head towards the Eastern group of temples.

Eastern Group of Temples

        The Eastern group of temples are classified in two groups-- The Hindu temples and the Jain Complex. At first lets explore the Jain complex. The road opposite the Western Complex will take you to the Jain Temple Complex. On the way, you will get the Ghantai Temple. This temple, dedicated to the First Jain Tirthankar, Adinath was built by Raja Dhangdev in 995CE. The walls of this temple is totally collapsed. Only the pillars of the Mahamandap is present today. These pillars features chain-bell motif. Thus this temple got the name Ghantai temple. The main deity of this temple is preserved in the Khajuraho Archaeological Museum. 

Main Entrance of Parsvanath Temple

        The Jain temple complex  comprised of three temples--The Adinath Temple, Santinath Temple and The Parsvanath Temple. After entering the complex, first you will come to the Santinath Temple, dedicated to Sixteenth Jain Teerthankar, Santinath. This temple was originally built in 1027CE by Raja Chandradeva.  Though the old temple was damaged and renovated by a Jain Trust of Nagaur, Rajasthan in 19th century. This is the only Jain temple in Khajuraho were devotees can still worship. The 12ft long main deity is the centre of attraction in this temple.

        Just adjacent to the Santinath Temple is the Parsvanath Temple. Actually this temple built in 970CE by a Jain family of Khajuraho was dedicated to Lord Adinath. Later on, it was replaced by Parsvanath as the main deity of this temple. This temple has a structure very much similar to that of the Laxman Temple, but unlike Laxman Temple this temple is devoid of any erotic sculptures. Though a Jain Temple, the walls of this temple shows sculptures and figures very much associated with Vaishavism. The entrance of this temple has an inscription of most perfect magic square.

Adinath Temple

        The last Temple in this complex is the Adinath Jain Temple, dedicated to Jain Teerthankar Adinath. The deity of this temple is a basalt made statue of Adinath. From an inscription in the body of the main deity, archaeologists came to know that this temple was constructed in 1158CE. The walls of this temple has statues of Jain goddess like Ambika, Chakreswari and Padmavati along with Hindu god and goddesses. 

        After visiting the Jain complex we started for the Javeri Temple. On the way, you will come accross the Bramha Temple. This temple is very much different from other temples of Khajuraho in respect to structure. Here, you can only find the garbhagriha which is crowned by a sikhar. Though according to some sources this temple is greatly damaged and it is only the garbhagriha which is still standing. There is no such strong evidences about the time of commissioning of this temple, but it is assumed that it has been constructed around 950-970CE. The walls of the temples are made up of granite, while the roof is made up of sandstone. This temple is dedicated to the creator of the world Bramha, though one can find Shiva linga and Vishnu inside the sanctum.

Bramha idol from

 Bramha Temple

        After Bramha temple, we visited the Vaman Temple, dedicated to the Vaman incarnation of Lord Vishnu. This temple was commissioned during the reign of Raja Kirtivarman. This is the eastern most temple of Khajuraho. About a 250m walk from the Vaman Temple will brought you to the Javeri Temple, the last temple in our Khajuraho exploration. This temple too is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, though the main deity is heavily damaged. This temple was built in 11th century. The structure of this temple is very much similar to that of the Chaturbhuj Temple.

        So, after the visit to Javeri temple, the temple exploration in Khajuraho comes to an end. But I found some findings while touring the Western, Southern and Eastern groups. I found that the temples inside the Western Complex and in the Jain Temple complex are in a very sound condition. But other temples, specially those in the eastern groups had faced the effect of time very much. 

Vaman Temple

        It is seen that many people while planning a trip to Bundelkhand region saying that Khajuraho is only for adults. Its a total wrong idea. In many travel brochures and advertisements of the travel groups, and infact in cover pages of books dealing with Khajuraho, we see Erotic figures and description that Khajuraho is place rich in adult contents in the temple walls. But it is not like that. According to Archaeologists, it is only around 10% of the total figures sculptured in all the temples of Khajuraho which are erotic and associated with sexual contents. These erotic figures too are not just a figure. It is according to some historians a form of worship performed by tantra sadhak and sadhikas in contemporary times. Actually, sexual contents attracts attraction. So, to attract tourists specially foreigners its like a business plan to project the sexual contents. For this reason it is seen that majority of tourists here in Khajuraho are foreigners. Khajuraho is a place which can be enjoyed by all, just have adequate time, so that you can visit all the places. Khajuraho is not a place of hurry. 

               

Erotic Scenes from Khajuraho Temples

        So friends, if you are in a worry whether to visit Khajuraho with family or not, you can have a plan. You will surely enjoy this place. And for kids, Khajuraho will give them a good knowledge about our past and about our cultural heritage. They too will enjoy. If you are visiting in Winter, keep it in mind that during February 20-26th, Khajuraho Dance Festival is organised the Madhya Pradesh Kala Parishad in association with MPTourism. This is a very good dance programme.

Dressing Apsara

        Before finishing today's story there are some tips for you...

Travel Tips  

First and the main, if you are in a plan to visit Khajuraho, obviously have time in your hand. Exploring Khajuraho temples will take time. One whole day for Western group and another for Eastern group.

How to Reach : Khajuraho is 70km from Mahoba and 170km from Jhansi, which are well connected through Railways. Few passenger trains are available from Jhansi and Kanpur to Khajuraho via Mahoba. It is better to hire a car from Mahoba to Khajuraho.

Where to Stay : Khajuraho, being a well known tourist destination, has a great number of hotels. You can find different Hotels as per your range. 

While exploring temples, start just after breakfast, have your lunch somewhere around the Western Complex, where you can get varied number of restaurants. Areas around Eastern or Southern group are remote, you will not find a standard place for having your lunch there.

Gift shops just outside the Western Temple Complex is a fantastic place for shopping lovers. One can buy momentos, replicas of Khajuraho Temples, t-shirts, bags and other dedcoratives and gift items from these shops.

Khajuraho can be visited any time of the year, except the summer months of May and June, when it is excessive hot. Rainy season visit to Khajuraho is fine but it must be kept in mind that if you have a plan to visit Panna Tiger Reserve from here, MP forests are closed for tourist from July to 15th October. 

For your convenience, a guide map of the Khajuraho Temples is uploaded below--

Map of Khajuraho

(Not Scaled)

        So friends, how was the story. Hope you have enjoyed it. Comment me your thoughts about Khajuraho in the comment section here or in my Facebook page. Your comments are very special for me. And if you enjoy this story, share it with your friends and relatives. may be they could be benefitted by this story. So, today its upto this. Very shortly I will be right back with travel story of Panna Tiger Reserve, which is visited by almost 80% of people visiting Khajuraho... Promise this wait will not be much long. Till then enjoy the story and stay safe. Good night...